I Love Mushrooms: My Favourite Mushroom Risotto

I love mushrooms. They’re one of the ingredients I reach for most often, especially when I want a satisfying meal without meat. Their savoury flavour and substantial texture make them a brilliant centrepiece for all sorts of dishes, from a simple supper on toast to pasta, pies and risotto. These photographs are from last year’s National Fungi Day, but they’re too good not to share. They’ve inspired me to start with one of my favourites: mushroom risotto. And there will be plenty more mushroom recipes to come.

The trick is to cook the mushrooms separately. Rather than letting them simmer away in the rice, I start them in a dry frying pan, let their moisture cook off, then add butter so they turn golden and savoury. A little tarragon, garlic and white wine lift the flavour beautifully.

Mushroom, Tarragon & White Wine Risotto

Serves: 2 generously (or 3 lighter portions)   Prep: 10 minutes   Cook: 30–35 minutes

Ingredients

• 250g (9oz) mushrooms, sliced or torn — chestnut mushrooms work well, or use a mixture
• 180g (about 1 cup) arborio or carnaroli risotto rice
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 100ml (about ⅓ cup plus 1 tbsp) dry white wine
• 700–800ml (about 3–3⅓ cups) hot vegetable stock, made with a good-quality vegetable bouillon
• 25g (about 2 tbsp) butter, plus a little extra to finish if you like
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• ¼ tsp dried tarragon, or a little more to taste
• 30g (about ⅓ cup finely grated) Parmesan or vegetarian hard cheese, optional
• Black pepper and salt, to taste

Method

1. Make the stock. Dissolve the vegetable bouillon in hot water and keep it warm. Taste it first: some bouillons are quite salty, so you may not need much extra seasoning.
2. Cook the mushrooms separately. Put a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms to the dry pan in a single layer, working in batches if needed. Leave them to release their moisture, then cook until the liquid evaporates and they begin to colour. Add about 15g of the butter, a little black pepper and a small pinch of the dried tarragon. Toss until glossy and golden, then set aside.
3. Start the risotto. In a separate, heavy-based pan, soften the onion in the olive oil and remaining butter over a medium-low heat for 5–7 minutes without browning. Stir in the garlic for the final minute.
4. Toast the rice. Add the rice and stir for a minute or two until every grain is coated. Pour in the white wine and stir until most of it has been absorbed.
5. Add the stock gradually. Add a ladle of hot stock, stirring regularly. When it is mostly absorbed, add another. Continue for about 18–22 minutes until the rice is creamy but still has a little bite. You may not need all the stock, or you may need an extra splash of hot water.
6. Finish and serve. Fold most of the mushrooms into the risotto with the remaining dried tarragon and cheese, if using. Add a splash more stock to loosen it: risotto should gently spread on the plate, not sit in a stiff mound. Taste and season. Spoon into warm bowls and pile the remaining buttery mushrooms on top.

Before you shop

Check for a half-used packet of risotto rice, an onion, garlic and bouillon before buying anything. The white wine can be a little left over from another meal; if you don’t have any, use extra stock and a small squeeze of lemon at the end. Dried tarragon is ideal here: it keeps in the cupboard, avoids buying a fresh bunch for one recipe and brings a lovely aniseed note when used sparingly. Tarragon isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, so start with a little and taste before adding more. A handful of frozen peas works beautifully, too; stir them in for the last few minutes of cooking. Finely chopped leftover celery or peppers can go into the onion base, making good use of those odds and ends in the fridge. Mushrooms are the one fresh ingredient worth making the star of the dish.

National Fungi Day: memories from last year

These photographs are a reminder of why fungi fascinate me, both for their beauty and for the flavours they bring to the kitchen. I’ll be sharing more of the ways I cook with mushrooms in the coming weeks.

A note on foraging for mushrooms

I spent an absolutely wonderful day mushroom foraging with an expert. We learned to recognise bay boletes and penny buns, and I came away feeling that learning about those two was quite enough for me. There is something special about looking more closely at what grows around us, but wild mushrooms deserve real caution. Some poisonous species can resemble edible ones, with potentially serious consequences. Never eat a wild mushroom unless its identity has been confirmed by a suitably experienced expert; photographs and identification apps are not a safe substitute. Shop-bought mushrooms are perfect for this risotto. I’ll share more about that foraging day in a separate post.

A little in season

Autumn is associated with fungi in the British countryside, although cultivated mushrooms are available year-round. This is an easy way to enjoy that autumnal feeling without foraging. Never eat wild mushrooms unless they have been positively identified by a qualified expert.

And if you have any risotto left, cool it quickly and refrigerate it promptly. Rice needs careful handling: eat refrigerated leftovers within 24 hours and reheat only once until piping hot.